The delicate, complex nose gave suede jackets, burlap and tatami mats in the sun; lemon balm, heathery hillsides and coconut; travel sweets and custard creams. The palate hit the fruit machine jackpot – melons, nectarines, brambles, sherbet lemons and dried pineapple and papaya – traces of wasabi peanuts on the finish.

The reduced nose had us imagining a sunny wooden platform above a rain forest, sitting on hay bales enjoying custard tarts, Charentais melon and Zinfandel rosé. The palate was lip-smacking, citric and summery – waxed sweets, lemon sorbet, gooseberries, barley water and Greek salad – tobacco strands and tannic oak tingles to finish.