A more tempestuous example of this legendary distillate. We found the nose initially prickling with antiseptic, bubble gum, wind-lashed linens and canvass. Citronella wax, tutti fruit, dried seaweed in ramen broth and coal tar soap. Hefty but soothing and superbly ‘zen’. With water we got heather flowers, pollen, sooty coal hearths, wood embers and scrunched newspapers. Some bone dry Riesling and wet beach pebbles.

The palate was initially bright and awakening with tar acidity, zippy minerals, lemon-scented candles and cough medicines. A squeeze of herbal toothpaste and touches of beeswax. Water made it more herbal and wonderfully mouthcoating. Rich, malty fatness, mineral oils, custard made with sweet wines and a saline kiss of ozone in the aftertaste.