An ex-bourbon hogshead did some fine work for 13 years before this 1st fill port barrique took over. The nose indicated wild celebrations involving strawberry wine, kir royale and rosé champagne, with new shoes, sugared almonds, and jam and coconut sponge cake. The palate gave us craft cola, dried cranberries and sugar-coated fennel seeds plus tantalising flourishes of tobacco, old roses and chocolates filled with cherry liqueur.

In reduction, the nose found sugar cane, red liquorice, bubble gum and dragon fruit. The palate was velvety and jammy with luscious red-fruit character, then slightly savoury on the finish – serving up honey-roast parsnips and prosciutto.