Initial nosing suggested aromatic and herbaceous scents such as wintergreen, lemongrass and dried herbs, then citronella waxes, cinnamon sugar, mulling spices and aged ruby ales. In time we also found the richness of brown bread spread with treacle. Some water revealed elegant notes of heather flowers, sultanas, pinecones and blackcurrant cordial.

The neat palate opened with rich tones of camphor, heather, shilling beers, waxes and salted liquorice, plus a splash of mineral oil and boot polish. Water brought bramble wine, sugared cashew nuts, lemon bonbons and an earthy hint of turmeric – robust and delicious, we agreed. This matured for 11 years in a bourbon hogshead before being transferred to a 1^st– fill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead.