The nose neat bristled with sherry influences that suggested tangy dark-fruit chutneys, HP sauce, bruised apples, ginger wine, orange peels, mulling spices and a sumptuous leathery richness. We also got plenty of freshly baked brown bread, treacle cake, tobacco and black miso. Reduction brought dark liquid seasonings, game-meat stocks, aged pinot noir, dried eucalyptus, orange oils and marzipan.

The palate neat was superbly herbal and darkly earthy up front; robustly sooty and gamey impressions, with leather, bitter dark chocolate, herbal cough mixtures, salted Dutch liquorice and natural tar extracts. Water brought more gingery notes, crushed brazil nuts, black pepper, motor oils, damp pipe tobacco, walnut wine, paprika and fruity red chilli. Tars, aged Armagnac and stewed dark fruits graced the aftertaste with a gorgeous rancio note.