A pair of smoking bananas were proof that something had gone down between the fresh limes and dry-roasted nuts in the pine forest that day at high noon. Autumn leaves still smouldered and a peaceful breeze blew ash over the remains of dried apricots in a Moroccan lamb tagine. Drops of water fell from above and splashed on to rose and tulip petals that were blackened by peat smoke.

This was all before nutmeg and ginger arrived, with a tar-covered coal scuttle filled with toasted nuts, to settle once and for all this peat turf war. After 4 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, this was then transferred to a heavily toasted ex-Islay refill hogshead.