First nosing suggested such madness as heavily peated swimming pools. Then, a smouldering beach bonfire doused in malt vinegar, tarred rope, crab sticks and rockpools cut with petrol. This was a mighty and potent dram! Water revealed lashings of burlap, old rope, creel nets, pure tar, more vinegar and hints of jalapeno brine and oyster sauce, with a final farmyard twang of funk in the background.

The neat palate was superbly sharp and powerfully briny: loads of seawater, petrol, tar, iodine and pickling juices. We also noted cornichons, capers and anchovies in smoked olive oil. With water it took on serious ‘dirty martini’ vibes, infused with boiler smoke, green and black olive tapenades, preserved lemons wrapped in bandages, and lashings of mercurochrome antiseptic and pickled onion rings.