Forget tea and biscuits, we were dunking madeira cake in red wine and tearing open a waxed paper bag full of raisins. To the palate, our wee afternoon repast was ultimately jammy, with black cherries and sticky brown sugar melting together with mulling spices, dark chocolate and spiced orange segments.

Adding water, toffee popcorn burst forward, joining fudge and a volcano of orange fondant and grape must. The palate was now reminiscent of sherry flor, cherry wood, Chanterais melon and churros dipped in caramel.