Fish and chips with lashings of malt vinegar, smoked marzipan, heather doused in TCP, salted grist, Parahandy puffer smoke and grilled whelks bobbing in petrol diluted with barnacle foam. Delicious madness! With water it moves more towards the farmyard with notes of iodine, ink, mutton fat, antiseptic, disinfectant and mixtures of brine, engine oil and medical tinctures. Smoked black peppercorns pulverised in a pestle and mortar.

The palate opens with smoked porridge, nettle cordial, soft tar notes, citronella candles, kippers in kedgeree, smoked almonds, aged Loire chenin and dried kelp. Water unveils notes of salt baked cod, Austrian potato salad, peppered mackerel, coal dust, miso seaweed broth, meat stock, beach sand and salty blue cheese sprinkled with crushed aspirin.