Teaspoon B
1989 Master of Malt
Blended Malt Whisky
53.6% • 700ml • Speyside
9 Bottles Remaining
$591.22
Featured • Save 10%

A former hardware shop in the County Waterford village of Ballyduff might seem an unlikely place to explore the history of Irish whisky, but since 2018, its shelves have been replaced by copper stills and its inventory has become considerably more intoxicating.
Blackwater Distillery was established in 2014 by Peter Mulryan, a former television producer and drinks writer with a particular fascination for Ireland's distilling heritage. Initially producing gin, the company began whisky distillation four years later, installing three Italian-made copper stills in its converted premises beside the River Blackwater. Head distiller John Wilcox brought his brewing expertise to the project, particularly in recreating historical whisky recipes.
Much of Blackwater's work revolves around the grains once commonplace in Irish pot still whisky. Historical mash bills frequently included substantial proportions of oats, rye, and wheat alongside malted and unmalted barley, combinations now seldom encountered in the category. Blackwater's Dirtgrain releases explore these older recipes, with the precise grain proportions forming an important part of each whisky's identity.
Fermentation is deliberately unhurried, sometimes extending beyond 100 hours, while double distillation produces a comparatively robust spirit, collected at approximately 71% ABV. New make is transported to County Wexford for maturation, with different cask types employed across the range.
The resulting whiskies offer a variety of grain-led characteristics, from creamy oat textures to the spicier contributions of rye, alongside occasional experiments with turf-smoked malt. For a distillery housed in a former hardware shop, Blackwater has found rather a lot to work with.
Long before Master of Malt became one of the internet's most recognisable whisky retailers, it was a rather more modest operation, sending bottles to enthusiasts through the decidedly analogue medium of mail order. Founded in Tunbridge Wells in 1985, the business began life as an independent bottler, with printed catalogues, handwritten orders, and the occasional cheque arriving through the post.
The arrival of Justin Petszaft, a theoretical physics student with a talent for computers, helped transform the business. Having developed its first website around the turn of the millennium, Petszaft oversaw a remarkable expansion into online retail, distribution, and spirits production. The growing enterprise eventually became part of Atom Group, whose portfolio also includes That Boutique-y Whisky Company. Following an acquisition by brewing giant AB InBev in 2018, the business returned to Petszaft's ownership in 2024.
Overseeing its whisky selections is Sam Simmons, better known to some as Dr Whisky. A former Balvenie global ambassador, whisky writer, and veteran of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Simmons joined Atom Brands as Head of Whisky in 2018. His influence can be seen in a bottling philosophy that values character and individuality over fashionable names or impressive age statements.
The company's fortieth anniversary in 2025 heralded a renewed independent bottling range, featuring carefully selected single casks and small batches, presented without chill filtration or added colouring. These releases offer fresh perspectives on familiar distilleries, often at refreshingly approachable prices.
From handwritten orders to a formidable digital enterprise, Master of Malt has evolved considerably, although its original fascination with discovering exceptional whisky remains reassuringly intact.