The nose had muscle-toned sherry robustness – prune juice, cinder toffee, treacle tart, dried figs, raisins and sweet wine and molasses cake from Madeira. The penetrating palate offered treacle toffee, Liquorice Allsorts and Eccles cakes; tar, cassis, intense mocha and hints of mushroom risotto umami.

Water emphasised fruit on the nose – roasted peach (with brown sugar), dried apricot and flambeed banana – also toasted coconut, nut brittle and sea-salt and caramel dark chocolate, with woody nutmeg and cinnamon spice haunting the finish. The palate, now sweet and chewy, had coconut and chocolate (Macaroon bars) with balancing espresso, prune and mature oak lending heft and punch.