Initially we noted lemon meringue pie topped with vanilla custard. The big and generously sweet nose also suggested hawthorn, lime jelly, apple juice and freshly crushed malt – easy, straightforward and highly appealing. Reduction brought apple turnover, brown caster sugar, melted butter run through with orange zest and subtle notes of mint tea and vanilla shortbread.

The palate neat opened with cherry cough lozenges, candied hazelnuts, sweetened olive oil and dried banana chips; robust and mouth-coating. Water brought out softer tones of crème anglaise, fruit salad chews, granola, papaya and starched linens.