An intriguing aroma of cobalt, Madeira cake, roasted almonds and blue raspberry ice lollies. Undulating notes of dark fruit chutneys, plum wine, five-spice, hoisin sauce, coffee and chocolate liqueur and then beef stock cut with jasmine tea. Water lightens the meaty tones and ups the warmth with horseradish, mixed spice, ginger, nutmeat and rice pudding thickness.

In the mouth we noted plum sauce, cloves, blood orange, game meats and Cointreau. Cherry cough medicine mixed with chocolate orange. With a little dilution, we found pickled raisins, lemon cough drops, chilli-infused dark chocolate, marsala custard and lychee syrup. Matured for ten years in a bourbon hogshead before being transferred to a second-fill charred red wine barrique.