The nose is a cracker treacle tart, syrup sponge and Toffifees; caramel latte, sherry trifle (with orange jelly), coffee kisses, flowers and wine-soaked oak. The palate is deep as Mariana and weighty as Nigerian Guinness in a clay pot burnt fruit cake, raisins flamed in spiced rum, clove-flavoured gingerbread and leather.

With water, the nose gets spice-laden incense, liquorice bullets, brandy snaps, espresso and Battenberg cake. The palate is easier but still tannic caramelised sugar, barbecued pineapple, Butterkist popcorn and tar dancing the tarantella on the tongue. After 15 years in ex-bourbon wood we transferred this to shaved, toasted and re-charred first-fill barrique.