The panel discovered a rather more punchy and fulsome example of this stalwart make. Lots of old varnish, buttered crumpets, hand lotion, talcum powder, white flowers, stone fruits, plum jam, burlap, white asparagus and some sweeter notes of desiccated coconut, orange and dark chocolate.

Water brought out millionaire shortbread, rum truffles, soft leather tobacco pouch and toasted fennel seed. In the mouth we found hibiscus tea, lemon bonbons, children’s cough medicine, pipe tobacco, herbal bitters, apricot and almond ice cream. With reduction, we noted Madeira cake, lemon cordial, five-spice and pain au chocolat – a wee medical hint in the aftertaste.