The nose opened with lemon bonbons and soon deepened to rich marmalade and vanilla custard tart. There was a tantalizing chocolate fondant note lurking the background asking us to take a bite. A varied assortment of dried fruits (currants, sultanas, orange peel, papaya) had just been mixed into some Dundee cake batter with some flaked almonds. Once baked, it was slathered in butter, still warm from the oven.

To taste, the orange peel was up front with a marvellously complex bittersweet oiliness, followed by almond oil and poached pears. In time the nuttiness turned to hazelnut chocolate spread, perhaps even on the cake?! A feel-good dram of epic proportions.