A bowl of mixed berry compote drifted past us as we supped on a glass of Caribbean fruit punch. The nose was predominantly sweet, with honeyed fruit notes, while the palate introduced cupboard spices, roasted chestnuts, and birch water served with a slice of apple pie.

Water elevated vanilla and lanolin on the nose, joined latterly by honey-roasted parsnip and fennel. The palate now presented cinnamon and cedar, clove and cherries, cigars and coriander. After eight years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this to a 2nd fill hybrid American-European hogshead with toasted heads for the remainder of its maturation.