The nose evoked a campfire – toasted marshmallows, bacon crisps, green olives with lemon and thyme. The neat palate was a sudden firing up of our internal combustion engines – salty olives, pickled ginger and jalapenos, chocolate limes, tarry smoke, coal-tar soap and chewing willow twigs.

The reduced nose was quite fresh – cucumber raita, Glacier mints, lime juice on mango, salty feta and honeyed baklava – somewhere between waves crashing on the shore and an old-fashioned steamie. The palate became sweeter and fruitier but retained an enjoyable, gentle astringency – lemon zest and gorse, with leather, walnuts and coffee grounds on the finish.