At first nosing we detected seawater, sharp medicines, grapefruit and green olives in pickling brine, plus some heady freshness of ozone, along with metal polish, wood ashes and lime juice. Powerfully coastal in many ways, reminiscent of Islay whiskies. Reduction brought crab sticks, pasta water, langoustines on a BBQ grill, oily mechanical rags, frying pancetta and hot chimichurri. The palate was initially superbly tarry with layers of farmyard funk and a few notes of bicycle inner tube betraying the rum influence. Clouds of damp blue peat smoke, burning wood embers, anchovy paste, soot and carbolic acidity. Huge whisky!

With water the smoke took on a sharper edge and notes of pure seawater, smoked barley wine, capers and sardines doused in smoked olive oil and lemon juice all presented themselves. Matured in a bourbon barrel for seven years before being transferred to a refill ex-Trinidad rum barrel.