Raw, earthy peat smoke to begin. Then kippers! Followed by peppered game meats, salty bacon, smoky pub carpets, petrol, glacier mints and hot horseradish. Smoked salmon soaked in bitumen, roof sealant and hot tar buckets. Potent yet wonderfully mature for the age. Water brought us more mineral aspects and a bigger saline note. Fresh, sharp notes of lemon juice, sweet barley, cough medicines and potent English mustard.

The palate opened with a big, hearty sootiness, smoked earth, burlap, hot kiln air, more kippers, dense medical notes and wood ash. Some miso broth, iodine and natural tar as well. With reduction there came squid ink, dried herbal cough medicines, boot polish, camphor and the oily heft of a hot smoked salmon sandwich.