A very classical and fulsome aroma greeted the Panel. Honey, vanilla caramel wafers, sugary brandy and liquorice to begin. Then some jumpers full of mothballs, mown grass, pear juice and nectar. Vibrant and vigorous. Reduction brought hints of dried spices from the cupboard, Madagascan vanilla, brown sugar, lemon curd and school pencil case shavings.

The palate opened with a lovely syrupy sweetness. Then bags of banana chips, foam banana sweets, doughnuts, cinnamon buns, pear drops, cloves and gooseberry jam. Water made things more zesty, citric and effervescent. Some rye spice, glacé cherry syrup and fruit salad gunge.