SMWS 79.13
Honey, I've Made Toast
Single Malt Whisky
62.3% • 700ml • Highlands
6 Bottles Remaining

The River Teith does much of the talking at Deanston. Water rushes through the old mill lade, slips beneath thick stone walls and hums through turbines that still feed the site with power. The distillery occupies a vast 18th-century cotton mill at Doune, a cathedral of brick and beam whose practical beauty makes marketing unnecessary. Inside, the air carries a clean cereal sweetness and a suggestion of beeswax, the sort of scent that settles on the tongue before a drop is poured.
The whisky story here begins in 1965, when the long-retired mill was converted to a modern distillery and the first spirit ran soon after. Deanston’s industrial bones gave it space, height and a reliable water supply, which in turn encouraged large, airy workrooms and steady, unfussy production. There were quiet years and a later revival, the place changing hands with the tides of the Scotch trade, yet the essential character remained: an engineer’s approach to flavour shaped by river power and good sense.
Clarity is built at the mash and carried through fermentation that favours fruit and a tidy, wax-edged weight. The stills are driven for a spirit that seems to polish orchard notes, honey and oatcake, often with orange peel and a faint lanolin sheen. Time in bourbon casks keeps things bright and biscuity, while occasional finishes add shading without smothering the house style. Deanston rarely shouts, it simply delivers a confident, textural Highland malt that feels both modern and rooted in its millwright past.
Hunter Laing has the reassuring air of a family firm that knows exactly what it is about. Established in 2013 by Stewart Laing after the division of Douglas Laing, the company carried forward not only decades of experience in the whisky trade but also a substantial inherited culture of cask selection, blending, and bottling. Its own account places the family in the Scotch whisky business for more than three generations, which helps explain the sense of continuity that runs through the range.
What has distinguished Hunter Laing is its preference for clarity over fuss. The portfolio includes Old Malt Cask, a long-running series of rare and older malts bottled at 50% ABV, alongside the Old & Rare range for cask strength bottlings of greater age and gravitas. There are also more accessible lines such as Hepburn’s Choice and Highland Journey, giving the company a breadth of offering without losing its identity as a bottler concerned with provenance and character. The emphasis is less on theatrical presentation than on letting cask, distillery, and age speak plainly.
In recent years, Hunter Laing has added a distilling chapter of its own through Ardnahoe on Islay, the company’s first distillery. That move feels less like a change of course than a natural extension of the same family ambition: to remain deeply involved in whisky not only at the point of selection and maturation, but at the beginning of the process as well. Even so, the core appeal of Hunter Laing remains much as it has always been, a house style built not around uniformity, but around the conviction that individual casks, honestly presented, are interesting enough on their own.
The below is the average score out of 5 from our members, and the flavour profile which was voted to be the most prominent.