A genie emerged from the bottle – wafting ethereal, fragrant, heathery smoke everywhere, but with a genie-al smile that showed his sweet, gentle nature – whipped cream and honey, lemon, lime, apple and tonka beans. The palate had a similar duality – sweet melon and pineapple, golden caster sugar, shortbread and cinnamon buns against pencil shavings and medicinal, shamanic smoke.

The reduced nose uncovered ash, antiseptic and herbs tossed in the kiln, with some white wine, tangerine and ice tea acidity. The lip-smacking palate now found wine gums, rhubarb rock, lemongrass, liquorice and eucalyptus – a dram of unusual character, with a charming and disarming side.