This one was wonderfully aromatic and dominated by coastal characteristics up front: big notes of crab sticks, rock pools, pink sea salt and pickling brine, with further impressions of mineral salts and malt vinegar in the background. What a wonderful and hugely characterful nose. Water brought out juniper, plus rosemary wood on a beach bonfire, dried tarragon, shucked oysters and soy sauce – loads going on in this one we agreed.

The palate opened with a big sluice of peated lemon juice! Then pink grapefruit, pure kiln smoke, natural tar and kippers slathered in smoked olive oil and capers. Reduction brought further clear notes of brine, tar, iodine, kelp and notes of green olive, preserved lemon and a wee kiss of something tropical and sooty.