Deep and complex for its age – the nose had fresh peppermint, cut grass and the banks of a river nearing the sea; we also found hints of smoke and balsamic. On the palate, the smoke was more obvious and intensified with time – accompanied by toffee apples, liquorice, treacle and wood char, plus teasing touches of elderflower, mango and herbs tossed on a barbecue.

Adding water brought lemon bonbons to the nose and evoked the sea, with lobster pots drying in the sun. The mouth-coating, chalky palate had clean flavours of lemon zest, sea purslane and carbolic with an ashy finish.