We were instantly transported to a remote church on the west coast of Scotland as guests at a wedding. The scent of ancient wooden pews, flower arrangements, and perfumes mingled perfectly with sweet peat smoke from the nearby houses and maritime aromas. The initial flavour was a sweet peat explosion soon followed by a creamy chocolatey texture and a never-ending finish of aromatic herbs.

With water the party started – cakes, smoky marmalade, roasted figs, chestnuts and smoked clotted cream over raspberries. To taste, Swiss roll, chocolate mousse, lemon cake and heather honey – all of that with a wonderful, sweet, smoky backbone.