Mezcal! Exclaimed the panel. Seriously sharp, ester-tinged peat smoke. Then dunder, natural tar, rubber fishing wellies, camphor, dirty boiler smoke and roof pitch. A big, rollicking, swaggering peat monster. Water brought out warm kiln air, drifting peat smoke, black olive tapenade made with smoked olive oil, chalky medicines and herbal toothpaste.

The neat palate showed an wonderful initial blast of mentholated peat smoke, then preserved lemons bobbing in brine, oily sheep wool, kelp and bonfire ashes. With water we got pure medicines, seawater, iodine, tar, salt cured venison and smoked fennel. Superb!