As soon as we poured the sample a salty, sweet, smoky maritime aroma immediately filled the room – like smoked herring in a sour cream sauce made with apple vinegar, chives and mustard. Smoke and sweetness perfectly balanced on the palate like a smoky spotted dick (dessert made with suet and dried fruits) served with custard a smoky version doesn’t really exist, but it does now!

With a drop of water the scent from a nearby peat fire reached us on the quayside where we were mending lobster pots. During a well-earned break we sucked oysters with a sweet soy and ginger dressing.