This was moved from ex-bourbon wood into a 1st fill heavy toast medium char hogshead after 13 years. The nose, bountiful and summery, held cricket pavilions and country houses, golden syrup, peaches and cream, apple tart and orange peelings. The palate was sweetly seductive, with raspberry and chocolate ice cream, raspberry and coconut bars, brandy snaps, fruit cake and mango (although one of us got savoury notes as well).

The reduced nose catapulted us back into summer – elderflowers in June, the perfume of fruit bowls and holiday hotel pools with bougainvillea and sangria. The palate now kept our attention with honeycomb, Danish marzipan chocolates, charentais melon and Turkish Delight.