The nose led us through a perfumed garden to a house made of sticky toffee pudding and malt loaf, where a pipe-smoking witch lured us with fruit pastilles, pear drops and yum-yums. She indulged our palates with battenburg cake, toffee waffles and cr̻pes suzette Рso delicious we hardly noticed the finish of spiced plums, cinnamon swirls and crystallised ginger, seducing us softly to the dark side.

The reduced nose combined torments of fruit salad and lemon drizzle cake with teasements of prune juice and cedar wood. The palate’s chocolate-coated raisin and banana chip sweetness was tempered by fruit skins, walnuts and after-dinner mints.