The panel noted a boisterous and playful aroma full of poster paints in an artist’s studio, old oxidatively aged wines, smoked blackcurrant, sautéed frog legs in butter, miso broth, mushroom powder and black peppered biltong. With reduction, we encountered a lumberjack’s woodshed, full of cold axe heads, freshly split logs and oiled chainsaw. Add to that roof pitch, freshly laid tarmac and fermenting lemons.

The palate was surprisingly saline with salt-baked venison, caviar, salted pistachios and sheep wool oils. Water brought the warmth of horseradish, English mustard powder, Belgian farmhouse ale, duck eggs, pickled ginger and sweetened cough medicine. Matured for 12 years in a bourbon hogshead before transfer to a 2nd fill red wine barrique.