We have pulled into a petrol station forecourt by the sea. Peated minerals, chalk, Febreze and lemon scented fabric softener fill the air. Then comes lobster pots, freshly creosoted fence posts, a stick of dynamite and a freshly washed hospital corridor. With water there is a spritz of fresh lemon juice, spray paint, old Marmite, sun-dried kelp, oyster sauce, lemon thyme and BBQ scallops.

The palate is immensely chiselled and medicinal. Raw sea salt, frying bacon, smoked kirsch, peated oats, grilling whelks, heather ale, sea greens and pure brine. Reduction opens up notes of juniper, damson panna cotta, green peppercorns in brine, beach sand, old boiler sheds, candle wax and iodine tablets.