50/50 lime juice and brine at first nosing. Then bright, shining peat smoke and clean, crisp, freshly kilned malt. Sooty cereals, cured meats, burlap, bonfire and newspaper ash. Add to this some squid ink, BBQ charred calamari with lemon juice and mercurochrome-drenched wellies. Reduction reveals pure farmyard smokiness. Bonfires on the seashore, old rope, tar liqueur, stir fried oysters with soy sauce, liquid seasoning and vinegar-soaked chip wrapping paper.

The palate neat is like a hot injection of lighter fluid and antiseptic. Salt baked cod, iodine drops, lemon flavoured cough syrup, pine air freshener, mouthwash and fiery salami. With water it all melts into hot plastic, lemon infused green tea, kippers in kedgeree, petrol doused oatmeal, green olives bobbing in seawater and dried seaweed in ramen broth.